This is a VERY basic care sheet we Recomend reading Rhacodactylus, The Complete Guide to their Selection and Care, Phillipe de Vosjoli, Frank Fast, and Allen Repashy.
Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)
You can make your Crested Gecko cage as simple or as elaborate as you like. The basic requirements are:
-We recommend a 10 to 15 gallon for 1 or 2 geckos (they like the tall, but if a long is better for you it will work just fine.
-For a very tiny baby, you can keep it in something smaller for a few months to make it easier for the gecko to find its food.
-For substrate we recommend orchid bark or coconut. Many other substrates will work, but stay away from any kind of Pine or very oily wood as it is not good for the gecko.
-Whatever you use make sure it is in big enough pieces that the gecko can’t eat it.
-Your gecko will need something to hide behind (we use cork bark, but you can use anything).
-You also need to provide things to climb on. These are arboreal geckos and like to climb and hang.
- Your gecko is comfortable at room temperature generally, the exceptions to that are if your house gets hotter then the mid 80’s on a regular basis or cooler then the low 70’s. If your home does get cool you can add a heat lamp when the temperature drops. If you were to choose a “best” temperature it would be 78.
-Your gecko is nocturnal and because of this does not require a UV light.
-Your new crested gecko’s diet should consist of soft bodies insects like crickets and mashed fruit. (We recommend using fruit baby food as it is easier and cheaper than pureeing your own) If your gecko does not eat the baby food, try another flavor.
- You should be feeding your new crested gecko every other day, rotating between insects and fruit.
-Put enough crickets in to last for 2 days (about 6-8), skip a day and on the third day put in a serving of baby food.
-You should be dusting your crickets with calcium and vitamin and also mixing a very little bit of both into the baby food.
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